Ford Facts Archive

Technical Tips and Talk from past Issues of The Script:

2004

2005

2006

Sound Advice

The distinctive “aaooogah” sound of the Model A horn is one of the car’s crowning glories when it’s working properly. But often it can refuse to cooperate despite all the care it’s given. My ‘29 roadster pickup’s horn was the latter--the motor would stick in one spot and not move unless I revved the engine, upping the voltage. I found it wasn’t the wiring -- putting a new reproduction horn temporarily in place proved that. And it couldn’t be a ground problem because the horn has two wires to feed it. The solution was a horn relay.

Some time after the Model A era, carmakers began adding this essential device. For $13 I decided it was worth a try. I received a nice small unit about the size of your thumb with all the wires and instructions and it fits inside the horn cover out of view. The hookup is simple: unplug the horn’s wires and connect to the relay’s wires. I cleaned inside the horn connection clips by using a small spiral wire brush chucked in a cordless drill. The only small problem was the supplied ground clip. I had to grind off an edge of the clip to prevent it from shorting on the horn brush holder when clipping it to the motor frame as suggested.

However, this also means that the horn and bracket must have a good ground to the light bar. The instructions end by saying: “The horn relay is not a cure for a defective horn.” So be sure to clean the commutator with sandpaper only -- never use a metal file. When oiling, place a few drops of light oil on the felt at each end of the armature shaft. When turning the adjusting screw to the right (clockwise), the sound of the horn is increased, when turned to the left (counter-clockwise) the sound is decreased until there is no sound at all. Be careful not to over-tighten the adjusting screw as this can stall the motor causing an overload. Now my once sluggish Sparton sounds off easily even without revving the motor.

- Ted Kafer

Tech Talk - Running a little rough with a lot of backfiring

Question: My Model A is running a little rough with a lot of backfiring when you step on the accelerator.  Can you give me some idea where to start looking?
Answer: Back firing is usually caused by the condenser failing or... the points may not have sufficient gap. Make sure they are set at .018 to .020". Make sure they are not burnt. Backfiring can be caused by intermittent firing of the ignition system or very lean fuel mixture. If the car has been setting for a while, the carburetor float valve may be sticking. Clean the float valve good and set the float level. Backfiring due to intermittent ignition can be caused by a frayed wire on the bottom side of the distributor plate . . or .. by intermittent connection of the ignition switch.

  1. Check point setting first.

  2. Replace condenser next. Make sure the condenser you buy is the right length, some are too short, and that it is a good quality.

  3. Check that the carburetor float valve is operating correctly.

  4. Sometimes the pop out type ignition switches get intermittent. As a last resort, replace the ignition switch/cable.

Les Andrews - Technical Director

Tech Talk - Angels of Mitchell - all Model "A" Adventures Should Go So Well!

After resisting change as long as possible and using up several pistons and engine bearings in the past few years, I decided that Charlotte deserved an overdrive before heading out to Portland. Charlotte is driven hard and often, usually accumulating about 6,000 miles per year.

First I tried to contact Mitchell Manufacturing who recently moved to Colas, CA.  The 800 number was disconnected and I could not come up with their current number. Next I placed an order with Snyder's as their catalog claimed they have Mitchell Overdrives in stock, ready for delivery. In the meantime I told my story to Bill Rose, who promptly offered an overdrive that he had not yet installed in his red pickup. Tom called back from Snyder's to say that they were also out of stock, but he did have Mitchell's new phone number. I called and Sue Mitchell confirmed that they were not yet in production and had a 6 to 8 week backlog. I told her that I would likely accept Bill's offer and she reminded me that I would need a different speedometer cable than what was in Bill's kit. The next day, Friday, the speedometer cable was on my doorstep, and the following day Bill delivered the overdrive kit to my home where we were holding the Car Judging Seminar.

Sunday dawned brightly; Charlotte and I were off to Friendship Day with the Club while the parts languished in the garage (Nora ran off with other friends for a day of "Girl Stuff"). Arriving home at about 2:30PM, I decided "what the heck." I opened the crate, admired Glen Mitchell's workmanship, and started removing Charlotte's drive shaft. Glen has devised wonderful tools, also loaned by Bill, which allows easy removal and reinstallation of the drive shaft without disassembling the differential or disrupting the pinion preload setting. By 9PM all that remained was to notch the floorboard, install the shift linkage, and fill the overdrive and differential with gear oil. Two more hours after work on Monday the job was complete - about 8 hours total, one old man working alone. The overdrive functions perfectly with absolutely no complications.

The next day I placed the order to replace Bill's overdrive, and ordered another for Kermit. Thank you Bill Rose for your generosity, and thank you Mitchell Family for the wonderful products and service - truly Angels of the Model "A" hobby.

Chuck E.

Tech Talk - Ignition Coil Trouble

If your motor is missing it could be confused with a defective coil, which may be in reality simply caused by dirt or moisture on the coil insulator.

It is important that the Bakelite insulator at the bottom of the coil be kept clean. When dirt or dust and moisture are allowed to accumulate on this insulator, a path for the leakage of the secondary current to ground is created. A first indication of this trouble may be noticed by a slight miss in the engine. Eventually as the path to ground becomes carbonized, the engine will misfire or cut out continually and may result in the engine stopping entirely, creating the impression that the coil is dead. To prevent and correct this trouble, keep the Bakelite insulator at the bottom of the coil clean and dry.


 Reprinted from National Standard Parts
Association Service and Flat Rate
Manual for Ford-1931, via the AH_OO_GA

Tech Talk - SCVC Library

This technical tip is courtesy of past club Librarian Tom Schneider. His tip is to check out one of the many informative videos from the club library!

#3 How to Stop on a Dime

This video takes you through all of the trials and tribulations of rebuilding the brakes on your model A so that when you step on the brake, "You Stop".

#4 Carburetors and Carbohydrates

This movie goes through the 17 different Model A carburetors, and follows through with a very clear and detailed restoration of the carburetor. Goes AZ through the model A carburetor. So when you're done, your carburetor will be as good as new!

#5 Dial D for Distributor

A thriller with a double edged plot stars Lloyd Kerr who shows and tells all about the distributor. He explains which one to use on your car, tells how it works, and graphically demonstrates the right way to restore it so that it will work perfectly.

#6 How to Avoid Fahrenheit Fright

Promising us a chilling message, the film takes us on a journey through the cooling system, a description on radiators and water pumps, the restoration of the parts and then offers some good tips on keeping you engine cool.

#7 The Flasher

Safety is of top concern nowadays, and turn signals are one of the most needed items for the model A. This movie will take you from A to Z on how to install turn signals on your Model A.

#8 Getting’ Along with Lloyd & Floyd

Tells about the kinds and types of model A generators. How to pick the right one for your car. What to restore and not restore. Complete instructions on restoring the generator. Also how to test the generator. Includes exploded view of the parts and their assembly.

#10 The Techniques of Hammer Welding

Look for the next installment of video descriptions next month!

Tech Talk- Issues with a 2-piece crank pulley

I would like to offer my advice on the use of the replacement 2-piece Crank Pulley offered by most vendors, based on the recent experience of several club members.

This pulley is a replacement pulley for the stock 1-piece unit that came with the Model A. Its advantage is that the pulley can be replaced in the car without removing the Radiator. Why would you want to do this? Well, ask Jay Day. While not common, it is not unheard of to have the cast iron pulley fail, which is what happened to Jay going to Canada last year.

A number of club members have been running this 2-piece design for years without problems. However, in the last several months at least 3 of us have had problems. The worst was mine, which happened at home, and Ted Kafer's, which happened in Victoria, BC. In both cases, the pulley portion had become loose. The design has locking ears and relies on the Crank Nut (official name is "Ratchet nut") to lock the two pieces together. If the pulley becomes loose, it has so little bite on the crank it can start to wobble. This wobble will quickly wear the ears, allowing the pulley to become looser, which allows further wobble----you get the picture. In my case, the 2-piece unit was even further compromised because it was constructed of aluminum (not a good idea at all!).

If you haven't messed with yours for a while and everything has been fine, don't worry. However, In my opinion, there are two steps you need to take when/if installing a new 2 piece pulley. 1) Make sure your units are well made and constructed of the proper materials. I recommend the cast iron units with spokes. I believe some solid pulley versions are of a softer material. 2) Make sure that the two pieces are truly locked together. The problem here is that it is not sufficient to test that the crank nut is tight. What was true in both Ted's and my cases was that the nose of the Crank protruded in front of the pulley. Thus, the crank nut just bottomed out on the crank and did not ensure that the 2 pulley pieces locked together. You can reach inside the pulley and feel this before you install the crank nut. The solution for us was to machine a washer with a dished-out back.

Putting the washer on the crank nut ensured that the nut pressed against the pulley and not the face of the crank. (If this doesn't make sense, talk to me, Bob Hazleton, Bob Meneely or Ted Kafer.)

My final advice is that you purchase or make a wrench that can remove or install the crank nut. The old solution of a hammer and cold chisel doesn't make it. Beware that this is not just a matter of obtaining the proper 1 3/8" socket. Clearance between the pulley and the front cross-member requires that you have a unique tool. Also, I purchased a special tool from a Vendor and it did not fit my car; the result of a poor 2 piece pulley I think. Make sure you test the tool you buy or make before you leave on that long trip. Oh, and make sure you have a spare 2-piece pulley with you---just in case.

by Dave Jones

Tech Talk - Model A Lubrication recommendations

Question: I understand that Ford originally recommended 600 weight oil for use is the Model A steering, transmission and differential. Are the oils you now buy which are described as 600 the same as originally supplied?

Answer: It is a mystery how or why the term "600W" became synonymous with Model A steering-transmission-differential lubrication. The only reference to "600" or "600W" I can find in Model A Ford literature is on page 377 of the Service Bulletin where they are discussing the seven tooth steering system. On page 375 of the Service Bulletins they recommend M-533 lubricant for the transmission and differential whereas on page 216 the recommend simply, "gear lubricant."

So far, we have been unable to locate information which defines the characteristics of what we commonly call 600W. cone 1919 Model T literature describes it as a "Steam Cylinder Oil."

Elsewhere, the 600 is defined as the flash point of a specific steam cylinder oil. I have yet to buy "600 oil" where the container provides any information as to its contents......

I would prefer using a known viscosity oil rather than an oil about which I know nothing.

Rather than buy an unknown, I would recommend a quality high pressure gear lubricant for the Model A steering-transmission differential such as SAE 250 or SAE 140 in that order. SAE 80W-90 is a little thin for quiet shifting and you will probably hear more transmission and differential noise than with 250 or 140. Some companies are packaging an 85W-140 oil which is a little thin for our purpose.

Lyle Meek, Technical Director

This information comes from the MAFCA website Technical Q&A page. Check it out for more great information! http://www.mafca.com/06TECH.html

Tech Talk – Fender Question

Q. Are front and rear fenders the same for all years of slant windshield sedans? For all sedans?

A. Yes, both the front and rear fenders are the same for the slant windshield sedans, 1930-31 Murray and Briggs sedans, and a host of other cars, including the Victoria, A-400, 30-31 station wagon, even the 1931 Town Car Delivery. This according to the Ford Parts Books. Part Number A-16310-B

-Chuck Christensen

Tech Talk - Take Two

It has been called to my attention that my answer to the question "Are the rear fenders on a slant windshield sedan the same as the other sedans?" is only partially correct.

The reference I used was the 1932 addition of the Ford Body Parts List, which would show what was available at that time.

The slant windshield sedans had a panel bolted to the rear of the body and the rear fenders, which the other sedans did not have, therefore the fenders would have holes for these bolts and there is a raised "dimple" in the fender in the same general area as the holes.

The slant windshield fenders would be considered replacement for both sedans, probably with the extra holes showing, but the non-slant windshield rear fenders would not be considered replacement on the slant windshield sedans because of the lack of said holes. Possibly the holes could be added if needed.

-Chuck Christensen

Tech Talk - Identification

Q: I am having difficulty in understanding why in parts catalogs, the two brands of Model

A carburetors are Zenith and Tillotson. But, when I look at your restoration guides (MAFCARESTORER) all I find are references to Zenith and Holley.  What gives?

Solution:  The Model A (all years) came from the factory with a Zenith carburetor. The Zenith 1 carburetor was made by Zenith, Zenith 2 made by Holley, and Zenith 3 made by Ford. All three were essentially the same carburetor (Cast iron bowl) and all three identified as a Zenith Carburetor, although made by three different manufactures.

Later Tillotson made an aftermarket replacement carburetor for the Model A (Cast aluminum/pot metal), which is a different design.

This tip, and many more, can be found on the MAFCA website:  http://www.mafca.com

Tech Talk - A Quail on the Hood is worth more than two on the Road

I have a tilt back Quail radiator cap and I have been using the Quail to open and close the radiator cap. This is not a good idea because the wing tips of the Quail get loose in the radiator cap. You should always open and close the radiator cap using the radiator cap (with your fingers, not the Quail).

The repair that I did, works very well. I used an air operated vibrating pencil to peen the wing tips of the Quail, and the cap itself, where the wing tips go into the cap. This is to tighten up the Quail wing tips in the cap, on the underside. If your Quail has come all the way off, you can sand the wingtips and the groove where they go into the radiator cap. Clean the area with lacquer thinner. Use J.B. Weld (it has a 600 degree working temperature and works well where there is moisture) to hold it in place. It takes about 20 hours for it to completely harden. Be sure you don’t get any on the locking lugs or the radiator cap will not turn. Use a small screwdriver as a putty knife and fill any holes with J.B. Weld. Put a heavy coat on the entire repair area. You may need to let the J.B. Weld set before re-installing the radiator cap, so the J.B. Weld doesn’t run. If the radiator cap is installed prior to the J.B. Weld being completely hardened, turn the radiator cap every couple of hours to make sure that it can still turn.

By Larry Conger

Tech Talk - Repairing the 1930-31 Stoplight Switch

On the SCVC tour to Watsonville April 15, I noticed a fellow club member’s stoplights to be not working; a faulty switch was diagnosed. As it was a hydraulic pressure switch, no immediate solution was available. Upon arrival at the Fairgrounds another club member informed me that the stoplights on Charlotte were not working. Both original styles of Model “A” stoplight switches are mounted under the car and are far from moisture proof.

With the wet season, moisture leads to corrosion, and corrosion leads to failure. The 28-29 version mounts to the side of the transmission and is slightly better protected than the center cross member mounted 31-31 version.

On the way home Nora asked if I had the parts needed to repair the stoplights. Although I had yet to check, I was sure that the problem was the switch. I told her that I would need to remove the new switch from our under-construction 1930 pickup and install it on Charlotte as I did not think that I had a spare. Upon arrival home, I verified that the problem was indeed the switch and removed it from the car.

Although an inexpensive item, it is inconvenient to not have a critical part when it is needed. As Charlotte is my daily driver the need was immediate. Upon removal, I noticed that the switch appeared that it could be taken apart; so I decided to give it a try. What did I have to lose? Today we are programmed to only think of replacing parts when the stop functioning properly – this is actually a simple to repair part.

With the switch still in the vise, I dressed the tip of the contact and gently scraped the other part with a very small file. I sprayed the contacts with electrical cleaner, and slightly bent the stationary contact upward a small amount to compensate for wear. I then coated the contacts and the plunger shaft with dielectric grease, and reassembled the case halves.

It worked like new or better. In about forty minutes total, I was able to diagnose (with a simple jumper wire across the switch terminals), remove, repair, and reinstall the stoplight switch on our 1930 phaeton. Although a new switch only costs $5, just experiencing the concept of a repairable component was worth far more.

By Chuck Elderton

The Twenty Millionth Ford Story

 "The Milestone Model A" has just been released by the Ford Motor Company. This outstanding DVD, produced by Ford Corporate Historian Bob Kreipke, includes never-before-seen film footage from 1931 recorded in dozens of cities and towns across America as the Twenty Millionth Ford made its historic coast-to-coast tour. It shows the excitement, the crowds, the fashions and the fun, as the Twenty Millionth Ford and a group of new 1931 Model A's rolled into large and small communities, and visited national landmarks and dealerships.
The modern restoration process of this landmark vehicle is also well documented.

The film tells the complete story about the most famous of all Model A's, from Henry Ford driving it off the assembly line, to its world-class restoration.

This documentary is 44 minutes of both color and black and white film, plus sound.
Price is $25 including shipping/handling/tax.

To place an advanced order, in time for holiday gift giving, send an email to: fcsdups@ford.com.
Indicate the number of copies you'd like to order, your name and shipping address, and your phone number.
You'll receive a return call to obtain your credit card information for payment.

I'm confident that you'll enjoy "The Milestone Model A" as much as I did.

Copyright © November, 2006 Santa Clara Valley Chapter of the Model A Ford Club of America
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